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Contents
10 I Dr. Volker Wendel and Dr. Peter Hössel of BASF explain the advantages of the new thickener for skin and hair care
3
Editorial
K
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
K
FOCUS Innovations
10
a Dr. Volker Wendel and Dr. Peter Hössel, BASF: Thickeners for sophisticated formulations
12
Nica Lewis, Mintel: International Launches
K 14
MARKETING a Market Survey: Packaging
18
14 I Our market survey of packaging shows at a glance who supplies what packaging components or services
Market Survey: Contact Details
20
Star of the Month: Cosmetic footwarmer
K 22
PRODUCTION a Dr. Petra Wirth, Alphachem: Avoiding the pitfalls
24
Miriam Becker, Merck: Feel, Fill and Function
28
a Nicole Häusler, Kolb: Snow White and the seven green Emulsifiers
30
22 I Dr. Petra Wirth of Alphachem explains some points to note when carrying out a safety assessment of natural cosmetics
24 I Miriam Becker of Merck outlines the benefits of functional fillers
New Ingredients
33
Packaging News
35
Supplier Check: Geka, Optima
K
SERVICES
6
Download List
38
Books
40
Events Diary
41
Formulations: Sprays & more
42
Suppliers’ Guide
47
International B2B Exchange
48
Company Index
48
Advertisers’ Index
49
Masthead Page
50
Preview
a Leading articles Front cover picture: Eastman
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Fine Feathers make Fine Birds – First Class Packaging makes a Statement!
Dressed for Success. This motto also applies to your product. Machines of Kugler and PPS offer a unique range of options for your creative packaging dreams. A dazzling array of feasible shapes and highly sophisticated dosing units for cosmetics of all viscosities make Kugler machines the safest investment. Many of the machines are implemented as monoblock systems, supporting
a multitude of functions on a single machine frame. For decades, our innovative OLQH FRQFHSWV ă LQFOXGLQJ WXUQNH\ VROX WLRQVăKDYHFRQYLQFHGWKHLQWHUQDWLRQDO clientele of the fast-changing cosmetics sector. As a member of Optima Group, Kugler stands for experience, synergies and worldwide service.
KUGLER GmbH Geschwister-Scholl-Strasse 89, 74523 Schwäbisch Hall Germany, www.kugler-ger.com Optima Group worldwide: U.S., Mexico, Brazil, France, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, Korea, China and Germany
KUGLER PPS
SERVICE
DOWNLOADS
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Free Downloads for Subscribers www.cossma.com/download Click through our Web TV clips: www.cossma.com/tv
presents the company’s latest innovations in the field of cosmetic packaging, including electronic components like light or heating systems.
explains how she founded the brand and outlines how she managed to reach a 50% plus in sales with innovative products.
talks about some significant research findings and the particular features of the company’s R&D department.
a NEW! PRODUCT INFORMATION ■ Product information: Ingredients: a SymRelief SilCare® Silicone SEA Aristoflex® AVC Hostacerin SFO SymHelios® 1031 MicroSilver BG Preventhelia EpiCalmin TCM SEBUMOL LPC : Lauryl PCA SEBUMOL SPC : Isostearyl PCA SEBUMOL ODPC : Octyldodecyl PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica Hydrolite 5 Aqualance Aquasense Finished products: Innovative products, selected by Mintel: a Sumptuous Color Bold Volume Lifting Mascara a Tinted Moisturiser for dark skin tones a Hungarian Wild Carrot Revitalising Facial Oil a Rinse-off Cleansing Gel The Fab Pore 15-Minute Facial Peel Énigmatique Geisha Laneíge Water Sleeping Pack Vegetables Kaleidoscope Lip Kit Emotional Aura Pact Gloss Trio The Pink Collection Jelly Cheeks Anti-ageing dermatological food supplement for men Dual body care targeting cellulite Aromatic hair treatment for an oily scalp Outlast Lipstain
SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES a Cosmeceutical skin care products: Are they really efficient? Scientific Version of article Anti-Ageing: A multifunctional concept Scientific version of article High-performance emollients with sensory appeal Chart: Skin Sensory Evaluation Pillow Talk Silicones: Tailor-made all-rounders Additional information on silicones
outlines the most important changes and requirements contained in the new Cosmetics Directive.
The ideal sun cream Scientific Version with charts More efficient cosmetics production: Hot/cold saves time and energy Chart: Process temperature and relative process time
REFERENCES:
talks about what are currently the most important areas of research in hair care.
6
COSSMA 11 I 2009
a Cosmeceutical skin care products: Are they really efficient? References, notes, add. charts a Aloe vera: Evidence of active content References From physiology to the end product: Living on our skin References Background: Bacteria on our skin
Bacteria in cosmetics formulations: Not easy to kill References on microbiology in personal care formulations
SUPPLIER LISTINGS Service Providers international Address listing Natural Cosmetics: Supplier listing ingredients and packaging Contract Services International Address listing Ingredient Providers International Address listing Packaging Providers International Address listing
Download Extra The exclusive service for our subscribers: At www.cossma.com/download you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for November: User name: cossma11 Password: new
MARKET DATA AND STUDIES ■ by country France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Latin America: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Germany: Personal Care Market Geo cosmetics: Detailed description of the study Eastern Europe: Market Data Cosmetic Market Russia: Data on cosmetic market Spain: Market shares by segments, companies and brands ■ by segments Finished Products: Sun Care Market Hair Care Market Data Worldwide Facial Care Market World-Wide (size, growth, brand ranking) Color Cosmetics Market: Brand Shares Ranking Body Care: Market data by segments and countries Natural Cosmetics: Market data, list of products recently launched (international)
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A trend has blossomed into a lifestyle
Feel the Green Kolb‘s ingreendients stand for green
Giving natural well-being a face.
SERVICES BOOK SERVICE
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Book Shop Place your order today, and be sure to keep yourself fully up to date! www.beauty-profi-shop.com Phone +49 (0) 6123 9238-206
[email protected]
Current technical books – selected for you by the COSSMA editorial team. Further information on the items listed, as well as lots more interesting titles, can be found in the beauty professional’s bookshop at www.beauty-profi-shop.com. Order your personal copies today!
GfK report
Charles Sell
Fiedler
Shopper types for natural cosmetics
Understanding fragrance chemistry
Encyclopaedia of Excipients
This extensive consumer type analysis is based on the findw ings of a GfK panel Ne with 25,000 participants. Full report in German, 96 pages: € 7,021. Full report in English: € 8,211. Summary in German, 38 pages: € 2,975. Summary in English: € 4,165
Kai Bester
Personal Care Compounds in the Environment This book covers in detail which toxic chemicals are responsible for harming the environment. 244 pages, hard bound, € 129.00
This book covers the basics of organic chemistry as applicable to the fragrance business. 417 pages, hard bound, € 95.00
Johann W. Wiechers, PhD
Andreas Reinhart
Skin Delivery Systems
Cosmetics Law
In this handbook entitled “Science and Application of Skin Delivery Systems” expert contributions update the reader on the latest findings in this field. 511 pages, hard bound, € 230.00
ECV
The authors, Susanne Opalka and Uschi Rollar, present 164 new perfumes and reports taken from “Haute Parfumerie” as well as interviews with designers and perfumers. 184 pages, hard bound, € 29.90
Blue List
COSSMA 11I 2009
back, € 36.00
Silicones for Personal Care This reference work for cosmetic ingredients, with CD-ROM, lists 8,000 cosmetic ingredients, including additives. 880 pages, with CDROM, € 168.00
Who and what
38
A German language practical handbook, “Cosmetics Law” presents the current legal position and explains some recent court decisions. 190 pages, paper-
Anthony J. O’Lennick
Parfums Edition 2009
This German language reference work for 2009 is on CD-ROM and as a printed book, and contains detailed information on all of the important players in the cosmetics industry. With the supplementary marketing CDROM all of the data can be exported. 316 pages, paperback, standard version, € 166.00, marketing version with data export function, € 1,050.18
This 2-volume encyclopaedia contains more than 12,900 entries covering additives, as well as a list of the manufacturers. 2 volumes, 1,600 pages, hard bound, € 350.00
Cheryl M. Burgess
Cosmetic Dermatology This book explains cosmetic treatments carried out by dermatologists and how the symptoms of skin ageing can be treated. 170 pages, 35 illustrations, 33 charts and tables, € 96.25
In this publication Anthony J. O’Lennick offers an introduction to the basic chemistry of silicones and their application in cosmetics. 160 pages, paperback, € 149.90
Barbara B. Gilchrest, Jean Krutmann
Skin Aging This comprehensive technical book contains numerous expert contributions providing an extensive overview of current research into skin ageing. 216 pages, 72 illustrations, 24 tables, hard bound, € 106.95
There’s only one place where you can get PURETOL White Mineral Oil direct from the world’s largest producer. www.cossma.com
TM
Petro-Canada produces PURETOL white mineral oils from start to finish – from integrated feedstock processing to certified white oils. We’re delivering PURETOL directly to our customers through our dedicated infrastructure and efficient distribution system. A full range of PURETOL white mineral oils is
Kraemer & Martin sagt Danke!
available to meet any of your requirements. So let us introduce ourselves: We’re Petro-Canada, the global leader in white oil production. At your service. For more information on PURETOL call: 1-866-335-3369 or E-mail:
[email protected] or visit: lubricants.petro-canada.ca/puretol
Purity You Can Count On
Allen Kunden und Lieferanten, die im Oktober unseren Stand auf der SEPAWA besucht haben, möchten wir sagen: Schön, dass Sie da waren! Wir hoffen, dass unsere Produkte und Zusatzleistungen Ihnen positiv in Erinnerung geblieben sind und freuen uns auf zukünftige gemeinsame Erfolge! Sie haben die SEPAWA verpasst? Schreiben Sie uns! Wir freuen uns darauf, gemeinsam mit Ihnen optimale Formulierungslösungen für Ihre Produkte aus der klassischen und Naturkosmetik, dem Homecare und I&I Sektor zu entwickeln.
Kraemer & Martin GmbH www.kum-online.de |
[email protected]
Big enough to do the job small enough to care
TM Trademark of Petro-Canada LUB 2184UK (09.03)
SERVICES EVENTS
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Fairs, conferences and seminars
2009
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
07.–08.11.2009
BEAUTY FORUM Hair & Spa
Budapest, Hungary
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
[email protected], www.beauty-fairs.hu
07.–09.11.2009
BEAUTY CONGRESS GREECE
Athens, Greece
09.–10.11.2009
Seminar: Packaging Design
10.11.2009
Seminar: Naturkosmetik in der Praxis Workshop: Kosmetik-GMP Sustainable Cosmetics Summit
Berlin, Germany Frankfurt a.M., Germany Windhagen, Germany Frankfurt, Deutschland
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
[email protected], www.health-and-beauty.com www.beauty-forum.com Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut
[email protected], www.verpackungsakademie.de Cosmetic Campus
[email protected], www.cosmetic-campus.de Cosmetic Campus
[email protected], www.cosmetic-campus.de Organic Monitor info@sustaina blecosmeticssummit.com www.sustaina blecosmeticssummit.com Cosmetic Campus
[email protected], www.cosmetic-campus.de Step Exhibitions
[email protected], www.scsformulate.co.uk DGK e.V
[email protected], www.dgk-ev.de Gesellschaft für Dermopharmazie
[email protected], www.gd-online.de Pro Carton
[email protected], www.procarton.com SCC - Society of Cosmetic Chemists
[email protected], www.scconline.org Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
[email protected] www.health-and-beauty.com, www.beauty-forum.com
11.11.2009 16.–17.11.2009
17.11.2009 18.–19.11.2009
Seminar: Lohnherstellungsverträge gemäß Kosmetik-GMP SCS Formulate
19.–20.11.2009
Workshop: Sonnenschutzmittel
20.11.2009 25.–26.11.2009
GD-Symposium: Messungen an der Haut und am Haar Pro Carton
10.–11.12.2009
Annual Scientific Meeting
12.–14.12.2009
BEAUTY FORUM MACEDONIA
Kleine Helfer bei sprühbaren Formulierungen: Avicel®-Produkte
Frankfurt a.M., Germany Coventry, Great Britain Witten, Germany Berlin, Germany Düsseldorf, Germany New York, USA Thessaloniki, Greece
Download now: Market Survey Process Technology, Laboratory Equipment, Packaging Technology
www.cossma.com/process
Download Extra
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The exclusive service for our subscribers: At www.cossma.com/download you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for November: User name: cossma11 Password: new
Sprays & more
This month we bring you 24 formulations for spray products and foams submitted by 20 ingredients suppliers. If any of these formulations looks particularly interesting for you they can be downloaded from the COSSMA web site in this month’s download area. Just go to www.cossma.com/download and log in using this month’s access codes that you will find on this page. This is of course a free-of-charge service for our subscribers.
I
nteresting hair styling ideas have been submitted by, for instance, BASF with the Wet Look Gel Spray, by Croda with their Stylishly Strawberry Mousse and their Layers for Layers Aqua Spritz, and by ISP with the 6% VOC Voluminizing Mousse. For those seeking sun protection products for sporty types the Orga Mineral Sun Spray SPF 50 & Water Resistant submitted by Seppic, the SPF 30 Very Water Resistant Sport Spray from Inolex and the Sports Protective Sun Spray from Croda should be of interest. And a sprayable anti-cellulite treatment has been put forward by Symrise in the form of their Anti Cellulite Gel with Biotive Esculin.
EasyFoil line Easy filling multilayer aluminum foil The advantages of aluminum foil combined with the performances of Lablabo airless pouch dispensers
A perfect barrier, especially against oxygen and UV
In December we will be turning our attention to the subject of formulations for lotions, creams and exfoliants. in January next year it will be time once again to look at sun care formulations. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy.
Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd.
Contact: Corwick Hall, Snaith Goole DN14 9AA; Großbritannien www.croda.com/europe/pc
[email protected] Profile: Croda is one of the world’s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients for the personal care industry. With a wide and diverse product range, Croda offers innovation supported by proven efficacy testing across all personal care market sectors. Formulas: – Sports Protective Sun Spray – Beat The Elements Hair Mist – Natural Root Boosting Spray – Stylishly Strawberry Mousse – Layers For Layers Aqua Spritz Styling Active Gel with Amigel® Alban Muller Tonic Milk with Bamboo and Amiporine Alban Muller Wet Look Gel Spray BASF Hair Styling Formulation Bayer Material Science Cleansing Mousse CLR Foaming Kiwi Facial Cleanser with Jojoba Aqua So Desert Whale
Body Velvet Caress Sprayable Lotion Dow Corning Smoothing Body Foam Gova Broad Spectrum SPF 25 Sun Screen Spray HallStar SPF 30* Very Water Resistant, Sport Spray Inolex
6% VOC Volumizing Mousse ISP Mild Hand-Face Mousse Lamberti Spa A Garden in Tanger Laserson Spray On Liquid Sunscreen Natunola Cleansing Aloe Foam Rahn AG Orga Mineral Sun Spray SPF 50 & Water Resistant Seppic Natural wipe – spray emulsion (cold production) Sisterna Sprayable Anti Cellulite Gel with Biotive® Esculin Symrise Velvet Mousse Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.lablabo.com
Advertisers’ Index
A. & E. Connock Perfumery + Cosmetics Ltd. www.connock.co.uk p. 52 Rexam Airspray International B.V. www.rexamairspray.com p. 25 Asahi Kasei Fibers Deutschland GmbH www.asahi-kasei.co.jp p. 19 BASF SE www.personal-care.basf.com p. 9 S. Black GmbH www.sblack.com p. 40 Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH www.courage-khazaka.de p. 8 CPL Group Ltd. www.cplaromas.com p. 13 Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co.KG www.cremer-care.de p. 33 Croda Chemicals Ltd. www.croda.com p. 19 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com p. 21 ESPERA-WERKE GmbH www.espera.com p. 31 GEKA BRUSH GmbH www.geka-brush.com p. 36 Kolb Distribution Ltd. www.kolb.ch p. 7 Kraeber GmbH & Co www.kraeber.de p. 34 Kraemer & Martin GmbH www.kum-online.de p. 39 Kugler GmbH www.kugler-ger.com pp. 5, 37 Kyowa Hakko Europe GmbH www.kyowa.eu/daiichi p. 26 Lablabo www.lablabo.com p. 41 Sigmund Lindner GmbH www.sigmund-lindner.com p. 12 Lutz GmbH & Co.KG www.lutz-packaging.de p. 20 Mani GmbH www.mani-gmbh.com S. 40 Merck KG aA www.merck4cosmetics.com p. 35 Mibelle AG www.mibellebiochemistry.com p. 2 Oriex Events www.pcd-congress.com p. 29 Pago Ettiketiersysteme GmbH www.pago.com p. 11 Petro-Canada America Puretol Lubricants.petro-canada.ca/puretol p. 39 Reed Exhibitions Ltd. www.in-cosmetics.com p. 32 Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH www.ROVIcosmetics.com p. 30 Symex GmbH & Co.KG www.symex.de p.8 Trichema AG www.trichema.ch p. 23
48
COSSMA 11 I 2009
www.cossma.com
Company Index
Aerobal www.aerobal.org Air Products www.airproducts.de AkzoNobel www.akzonobel.com/personalcare Alban Muller www.albanmuller.com Alcan www.alcanpackaging.com Alphachem www.alphachem.com Angus www.dow.com/angus Aveda Institute www.aveda.com Avon Products www.avon.com BASF www.basf.com Bayer Material Science www.bayercosmetics.com Beiersdorf www.beiersdorf.com Bell Flavors & Fragrances www.bell-europe.com Bourjois www.bourjois.com Boxal www.boxal.com C+N Packaging www.cnpkg.com CCL Label www.ccllabel.com CLR www.clr-berlin.de CPL Aromas www.cplaromas.com Croda www.croda.com Desert Whale www.desertwhale.com
p. 33 p. 8 p. 30 p. 41 p. 3, 33 p. 22 p. 8 p. 8 p. 8 pp. 10, 30, 41 p. 41 p. 20 p. 8 p. 33 p. 33 p. 8 p. 33 p. 41 p. 8 p. 41 p. 41
Dieter Bakic www.bakic.com Dow Corning www.dowcorning.com Drom www.drom.com DVI www.verpackung.org Estée Lauder www.esteelauder.com Evonik www.evonik.com/personal-care Exal North America www.exal.com Fachpack www.fachpack.de Fareva www.fareva.com Geka Brush www.geka-brush.com GfK www.gfk.com Gova www.gova-benelux.com HallStar www.hallstar.com Impag www.impag.de Inolex www.inolex.com Interpolymer www.interpolymer.de ISP www.ispcorp.com Jennewein Biotechnologie www.jennewein-biotech.de Kao Chemicals www.kaochemicals.de Kolb www.kolb.ch Kugler www.optima-group.de
p. 33 p. 41 p. 8 p. 33 p. 8 p. 30 p. 33 p. 33 p. 33 p. 36 p. 3 p. 41 p. 41 p. 30 pp. 30, 41 p. 30 p. 41 p. 30 p. 8 pp. 8, 32 p. 37
Lamberti Spa www.lamberti.com Laserson www.laserson.com Merck www.merck4cosmetics.com Mibelle Biochemistry www.mibellebiochemistry.com Natunola www.natunola.com Nivea www.nivea.com Oriex www.oriex.fr Pago www.pago.ch PCD-Konferenz www.pcd-congress.com Purcell Jojoba www.purcelljojoba.com Rahn www.rahn-group.com Rako Etiketten www.rako-etiketten.com Rohm and Haas www.rhpersonalcare.com Seppic www.seppic.com SHB www.shb-gmbh.com Sisterna www.sisterna.com Symrise www.symrise.com Takasago www.takasago.com Zschimmer & Schwarz www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
p. 41 p. 41 p. 24 p. 30 p. 41 p. 33 p. 8 p. 33 p. 8 p. 8 p. 41 p. 33 p. 8 p. 41 p. 33 p. 41 pp. 8, 41 p. 8 p. 41
www.cossma.com
The Team
Masthead Page You would prefer to read the German version? Fill in the form below and make sure you receive the language version of your choice!
Volume 10 ISSN 1439-7676
Managing Director Jürgen Volpp
Published by Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Director Sales Cosmetics: Tobias Klumpp Phone: +49 721 165-138 E-mail:
[email protected] Address Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148 Editorial Staff Legally responsible party: Max Barth Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: +49 721 165-169 E-mail:
[email protected]
Director Sales Cosmetics Tobias Klumpp +49 721 165-138
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: +49 721 165-144 E-mail:
[email protected] Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz Phone: +49 721 165-210, Fax: +49 721 165-148 The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan. 2009.
Senior Editor Angelika Meiss +49 721 165-169
Advertising sales Dorothea Michaelis +49 721 165-144
Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Service Klaus Schuler Phone: +49 721 165-131, Fax: +49 721 165-148 Published: 12 times a year COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and “Aerosol and Spray Report“ Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Production Ulrich Hanke Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: +49 721 165-592 ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696 Printing VVA GmbH/Wesel Kommunikation Dr. Rudolf-Eberle-Str. 15, 76534 Baden-Baden, Germany
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International Representatives Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary, Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248 E-mail:
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© Copyright Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karlsruhe 2009
Fax to +49 721 165-103 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine.
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www.cossma.com/subscription
E 51 2 8 0 www.cossma.com
COSMETICS S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y MARKETING
Ingredients New thickener for skin and hair products
Product development Snow White – and the green emulsifiers
Packaging Newly updated: the packaging market survey
VIP of the Month
Dr. Petra Wirth of Alphachem talks about the safety assessment of natural cosmetics products
Focus: Innovation
11 / 2 0 0 9 www.cossma.com
