1 IJSGPAPER
Futuristic Approach for Product and Technology Development for Jute, A Survival Route`` Subimal Palit Jute Textile Consultant Associate, INDICON, Kolkata, India E mail
[email protected] [email protected] Mobile 09109433178548 1. Background: Jute, one of the major and important natural fiber industry is in existence for more than 178 years. Its products and the processing technologies were designed at Dundee, the seat of British jute industry that started in 1830, within and besides flax industry, importing raw jute from East Bengal [now Bangladesh]. Later, in 1856 colonial rulers started parallel jute production, on two banks of river Hooghly, in the heart of capital city Calcutta, a well chosen place and in close proximity of raw jute growers in East Bengal. Indian and Pakistan independence in 1947 left the jute industry in a crucial stage. All the jute mills were left under the Indian territory while raw jute growing was left with East Pakistan [now Bangladesh] . Within next two decades both countries, India and Pakistan, did spectacular readjustment. Pakistan installed full-scale production in East Pakistan to consume all fibers grown in the country. On the other, India initiated raw jute cultivation in West Bengal and in other adjoining states and achieved self sufficiency. In global market two countries emerged as competitor to each other. Indian jute industry lost its 70% export in the face cost advantage that could be offered by Pakistani mills. Fortune bailed out Indian jute mills owing to green revolution that needed almost 60% of Indian jute goods production for packing and storing food grains in creating buffer stock. In 1972 Pakistan was parted. East Pakistan became Bangladesh and Bangladesh jute industry went into sociopolitical readjustment. As a result captains of jute mills in two countries did not get breathing time to look into strategic changes that requires for an industry to tide over time. Only after IJO and IJSG formation, international attention is drawn to rejuvenate the jute industry. However, at country level national R&D institutions were engaged at a level that could bring marginal change to take the industry in new direction. The main weakens of the industry lies in a) its orthodox product mix, a flexible packing container for food stuff and b) adherence to the antiquated processing technology. Under the above backdrop this paper tries to see the future products that can add 4 - 5 times values over the present level and trace back the technology that will yield the new products. It is reckoned that technology is the vehicle for innovative products. 2. Value Added Products: Strategically, jute has to perform as textile substitute. If jute can dent in the coarser end of textiles, the benefit is enormous for producers and consumers on the other, at lower cost. This will lead to expand in larger share of market. Products may origin from woven and nonwoven – stitching and knitting a. Woven Textiles: Jute with its fiber fineness cannot be spun below 2lb [64tex/ 9.8 English counts]. To enter into apparel area one has to spin at least 20`s and finer where jute has no scope to enter. Therefore, chances lies in entering in home textiles where below 4lb jute yarn which can replace coarser cotton yarn. But it
2 has to engineer judiciously by fabric designers. Limited work done under GOI/UNDP project 1992 reveals that there is good deal of demand for fine yarns in the handloom sector. But problem lies with the mills in its incapability to spin light count with the existing flyer spinning that was designed in 50`s by Mackie, cannot spin below 5 lb [170 Tex/ 3.2 s]. Yet it has limited chance to enter in home textiles. Indian handloom sector is rich in innovation and came forward to absorb 5lb jute yarns. But jute mills declined to offer at reasonable price. It is an example of shortsightedness of jute mills in India. So to help the handloom sector MOT/ GOI mooted an idea opening Yarn Bank under NCJD. This was a successful approach. Handloom sector ushered in jute in their products and developed innovative textile products. i. Home Textiles: 1. Spinning light yarn needs ring spinning. Unfortunately yet no serious attempt has been made to induct ring spinning baring a few mills with half hearted attempt that leads doubt in fuller utilization in ring technology. Ring spinning alone is not a success unless it is supported by intersecting drawing with auto leveler, followed by good cards. Present open gill drawing and cards are of no use for jute in splitting good fibers on cards and attenuation on drawing. Present cards does carding at the cost of damaging long fiber generating unduly short fibres causing elements of irregularity in yarn. 80 % of carding accomplishes at the feed if breaker card damaging the fibers. [ J.N. Mather ]. Added to it, open gill drawing induces irregularity due to inadequate control of fiber and floating of sliver in the drafting zone. Designing such machines Mackie had done no good to jute industry by denying state-of art technology available in 60s. Made them richer by supplying orthodox machines to jute producing countries. It was shrewdness on the part of Mackie to come up with new technology a decade later. But meanwhile Mackie went into bankruptcy and owned by Golden Eagle, China. In contrast it would have been wiser to adopt stress break and feed woolen cards that handles finest of wool like Marino wool and processed through intersecting gill drawing followed by ring spinning at 12,000 rpm. This approach is being tried by NSC. But the price tag is exorbitant to absorb to the extent high value diversification can be possible . In India GOI/UNDP project had proved that fine yarn spinning [2 lb] needs intersecting gill drawing with auto leveler, Comber and ring spinning achieving ring speed 10,000 rpm. Now India is in position to supply modified woolen cards, intersecting draw heads with auto leveler and ring spinning capable of spinning 8lb at 6,000 rpm. This system can go upto 3lb. One mill with imported spinning system from NSC Shulmbergar, France is on regular production of 2 lb yarn and selling at INR 1,80,000/MT. It is an eye opener for others to follow and try to come out of traditionalism. Such systems are available secondhand with 10 years shelf life for willing entrepreneurs. But one must be prepared to dent into new
3 market and do away the traditional jute goods marketing philosophy and remember jute is no longer in the seller’s market. To capture value addition it has to change mental frame to go into the buyers market. 2-3 lb yarns can be woven into good covered 200 -300 gsm fabric, but it has to impart classical textile finishing. Post spinning technology of using shuttleless looms is no new news for Indian industry. The author had come across 100% all jute summer sport jacket, enzyme finished made in Jakarta importing yam from India, finished under the technical license form Swish firm and marketing in developed countries as summer wear! It is suggested that forward looking jute mills may keep aside 10% of its resources for process innovation without which in true sense value addition will not reach jute industry. Here, IJSG perhaps can act as catalytic agent by providing technical knowledge by hiring experts in the manner APO does. Willing mills will pay fraction cost of expert. Woven fine fabrics well finished can fetch INR 2,00,000/ MT.[60/sqm/300gsm fabric]. The market segment would be home textiles. This market is rich and abundant, as with the growing global population demand for cotton in apparel sector is intense and can pave easy way. ii. Twine : 1. Yarn mills can develop innovative small package twines for; a. Wrapping threads in supper markets replacing synthetic threads.@ INR 30,000/MT b. Sewing thread for shoe @ INR 5,00,000/MT.But it has to be polished. It would replace flax thread. [Market - Bata Shoe]. c. Nursery threads : Vine yards @ 30,000/MT [For developed countries]./ Its quality requirement would not as exacting as demanded woven carpet market. iii. Jute / Cotton Composite System: While this paper suggests on innovation. It is time for new and willing jute mill owner those who possess cotton mill can consider to adopt the jute cotton blending on cotton system designed by SITRA. The system ensures spinning 10s count with jute:cotton::50:50 ratio. Investment will be INR 100 lakhs for 1 TPD. Woven fabric can fetch INR 1,50,000/MT It needs mention that only White jute [ JRC 321] variety will be suitable as it is the finest jute fibre available having fineness 8 Denier compatible to mix with cotton. b. Non woven Textiles: It is totally unknown to jute industry partly due to new invention next to spinning and weaving. Promises are unending potential for value additions, product ranges are many. This paper will pick up a few applications and focus on products on which jute mills can lay hand immediately. Unique feature of non woven is, it reduces drastically processing stages and can do away processes after carding and adding cross lapper and needle looms or stitch bonding. Thus manpower requirement can brought down to 20 per MT as against to 30 – 45 hands/MT in weaving process. i. Non woven: 1. The process involves a. Stapling the long jute to 10 inches, mixing.
4 b. Hopper feeding: c. Garnet carding [ Dual carding optional ], d. Cross lapping 2. Needling for bonding and fabric formation. 50 – 2000 gsm a. Product ranges i. Auto mobile panelling ii. Aquatics boards iii. Heat and sound barrier for defence vehicles, tanks iv. High altitude defence housing under layer. v. Wall covers/ panels in housing projects in cold countries. vi. Floor cover as linoleum under lays vii. Embossed floor cover, dyed, printed can substitute contract tufted carpets used in houses in developed countries. viii. Tufted carpet base for hand tufting. [Market in Panipath, India] ix. Shopping bags x. Geo Textiles, as filtration layer. xi. Shoe lining b. In all the applications price will be INR 1,50,000/ MT 3. Stitch Bonding [Web Knitting]: After cross lapping nonwoven matrix passes through series of multiple stitching needles converting layers of cross lapped fibers into woven fabric. It is a unique of all nonwoven technology. What is stitchbonding? Stitchbonding is the process of knitting through a fibrous batt, and/or various papers, films, foils, or other nonwoven materials or fabrics. This process creates a new fabric structure not possible using other fabric formation processes. What are the main advantages of the process? High productivity - low cost. Typically consist of 5% to 20% yarn - 80% to 95% un-spun fiber. Spinning costs are avoided on the bulk of the fabric, drastically cutting costs. Add to cost savings. Ability to design radicaly new fabric constructions that will set your company apart from the rest, and you'll find stitchbonding will give you a real advantage in the marketplace. What weights are available? Fabric basis weights range from less than 1 oz./sqare yard, to more than 30 oz./square yard. What types of materials can be stitchbonded? In general, materials that can be pierced by a stitchbonding needle, and that can be fed through a 1/5 inch(5 mm) gap, can be stitchbonded. Examples include, but are not limited to: fibers, papers, films, foils, foams, continuous filaments, various nonwoven fabrics, woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. a. The author had opportunity to witness a commercial application at Belfast, UK in 1992. Mr. Gordon Mackie desired him to influence MOT/GOI to induct this process in
5 GOI/UNDP project which was just in formative stage. But the idea was kept in abeyance as some one thought it is early and before time! Now 16 has elapsed it is the right time for the jute industry to take hold of stitch bonding technology. A project proposal is submitted by INDICON to IJSG for approval and funding. Features: 1) Working width (mm): 1,600, 2,400 2) Speed (r/min): 10 - 800 3) Gauges: 3.5, 5, 7 4) Stitch length variable: 0.5 - 5.0mm 5) Let-off mechanism: roller 6) Warp beam support: 30 or 21 feet free-standing floor creel 7) Fabric take-up: electronic 8) Needle type: slot needle 9) Pattern drive: 1 bar The process unthinkably simpler as outlined below, b. Fiber stage bleaching./ dying c. Drying d. Stapling to 10 inches e. Hopper feeding f. Dual garnet carding, g. Cross lapping h. Stitch bonding i. Printing, flat or rotary. i. Product Ranges: 1. Curtain 2. Upholstery 3. Medium to heavy weight apparel fabrics 4. Wall covers ii. The above product ranges will fetch INR 2,00,000/ MT Author made market survey for sourcing used Stitchbonding machine. One seller quote``Stitchbonding is a fast growing area of nonwovens. We sold recently more stitchboning machines than any other kind of equipment. The excellent idea of making knitted goods in a nonwoven system produced articles of low price and great versatility. These machines are being used to make technical products (car, tires, tarpaulins, etc.), shoe components, furniture and car components, blankets, mattress ticking, insulation pads, wiping cloth (of 100% cotton), clothing, curtain interlinings, table covers, carpets and many more products.``
4. Quilting: All over the world in cold countries quilt is a must for going into bed and have comfortable sleep. Most of the quilts are stuffed with cotton/ polyester tow/ rough wools. Unique thermal properties jute can replace relatively costly fiber presently used in quilting. The process involves, a. Stapling long strand in 10 inches b. Mix 50% with the Polyester / rough wool c. Blending
6 d. Hopper feeding e. Garnet carding f. Cross lapping g. Condensed feeding h. Machine quilting with stuffed fibers This product can fetch INR 1,00,000/MT 3. Circular Woven Sacks: Jute industry produces about 50% of its capacity in sacking – B.Twill [ Binola, synonym in Bangladesh] for 50 kg grains and A.Twill for 100 kg sugar . About 50% of the conversion cost consumes in weaving on flat loom and sewing. Twill construction though has its advantage in cover factor of fabric. It is not essential requisite for packing grains. These bags can be woven with plain weave serving the same purpose and yet be stronger. It is not understandable why even in 21st century sacks have to be twill weave and woven on flat looms when circular looms are successfully used for synthetic bags. Why jute industry has not given rethinking? Even the R&D institutions failed to notice this features. In 50s Mackie designed shuttleless looms for Hessian and Sack weaving, example-- One Mack, S4 looms. In these looms with heavy count of weft, 30lb is to be used as warp. The result twill structure would be reverse face of fabric. Loom productivity would be 6 times more than flat looms. Yet industry failed to accept this innovation on the plea that consumer will not accept the product! It was unacceptable and foolish logic. Customer has to be convinced and educated. Even to day when in India bulk B twill consumer being FCI, Indian jute industry never thought of switching over to S4 looms and reap cost benefit.. Unfortunately, industry continues to weave a sack designed 180 years back by Dundee industry! Time has advanced. Now jute industry needs to adopt circular looms with 4 times higher out put, eliminate side stitching and reduce sewing cost. Fabric geometry can 2/1 plain weave. This suggestion would not add value to Sacks but certainly would reduce cost by at least 20% 4. Change in Sacking Construction: Jute industry did not noticed the change that occurred in textiles from 60s with advent of synthetic fibers. Which did not clichéd to 100% cotton. Rather welcomed synthetic fibers in its mix. As a result today Cotton/ polyester in 30/70 proportion is the most popular apparel fabric world wide and won over consumers choice. In this contrast, jute strongly objected in road of PP in its mix, even as union fabric. As a result it has lost sight that with the strength of synthetic lobby has plunged in the territory of jute dominant market. Glaring example is the loss of 100% cement packaging to plastic in 70s. Today it is on the way to loss market of packing wheat, grains, potato, onion, so on. At least 30% of market force is now favouring 100% PP bags. Jute unfortunately, still now having foreseen reality is not inclined to compromise the situation. In India jute industry is at the mercy of GOI to make mandatory use of 100% grain packs. It is followed in other countries too. In 70s synthetic lobby offered a proposal to MOT/GOI to use PP in warp and jute in the weft and compromise on PP/ Jute union fabric on circular looms. It was noble gesture to live together rather than competitor to each other. PP bag manufacturers at Gujrat experimented to run jute in the weft. Resultant bag was excellent. But Indian jute industry opposed the idea. Effort of MOT/GOI was shelved. Purpose of telling this story is that it is late but not too late. Jute industry should consider using circular looms and using PP tape in warp and producing Jute/PP union bags as substitute to B.Twill, A.Twill. Loom productivity will be enhanced three times and lowering the cost. Adaptation to this approach would need capital investment on circular looms and setting up PP plant. [ Author was associated with this project.]
7 5. Scenario in Economic Meltdown: Industrial demand has slowed down and shrunken. This impact has come to jute good export. In this regard first causality is the jute yarn market in the carpet weaving. Immediate worst suffer would be the yarn producing units particularly in Bangladesh, which are solely dependent on yarn market. These mills have to in search of alternate products. They should be the recipient of ideas of new value added products discussed here. 6. Model for Jute Diversification. Here an attempt is taken to show how and where the diversification can be undertaken. It is an exercise for willing entrepreneur. It is assumed a Yarn unit of 50 TPD is hard pressed for diversification due to slowdown in yarn demand. Which is likely to continue for another two / three years. Even if the mill can sustain element of uncertainty cannot be ruled out. Options are left to invest on the value addition some of which has been discussed in this paper. Let it be model mill approach for a 50 TPD yarn mill. To enter into Textile grade fabrics. It would be good idea to setup jute/cotton blended 1MT jute/ cotton mini mill along with production capacity of 1 TPD with investment of INR 100 lakhs. This unit can spin 10s cotton count [ 1.7lb ]. This project was designed and developed by SITRA choosing White jute [ JRC 321]as compatible fibre for its fineness [ 8 Denier] against Tossa jute [ 14 Denier]. 7. Selection of Fiber: There are two verities of fibers. Corchorus Capsularies [White] and Olitorius [Tossa]. Even upto 60`s both the verities were available. It declined For White verities farmers did not get ruminative price due to low yield. But White verities possess superior quality in fiber fineness and strength which will the natural choice for diversified jute product. Mill should not mind to pay more to encourage White jute farming as the value added products will absorb marginally higher RM cost. This the time mills can go for contract farming assuring farmers right price and market. Price of Bangla White Special (BW Special) TK 7350 and Bangla Tossa Special (BT Special) TK 7775 for pacca bales[180 kg]. The price differential is TK 2.36/kg 8. Implementation: The value added product ranges discussed here may sound attractive but leaves hesitation in the mind of willing entrepreneurs about its technical feasibility besides marketing. To plunge into such unchartered venture. [ See Table below]
8
Table :Plan for diversification of 50 TPD yarn mills
Products
Sacking
Decorative Hessian
[ B. Twill/ A Twill]
1
2
Applications
Capacity TPD % Capacity Sale Price/MT[INR] Realisation [INR] Weighted Realisation /MT [INR[ Present realisation/MT Value addition Technology
Stitchbonding
3 Gray For processing decentralised sector.
4 Printed
5
15 30 35,000
80,000
1.20,000
Home textiles, Curtain Upholstery, Floor covers. 5 10 1,20,000
5,25,000
8,00,000
1,20,00,000
60,00,000
3,20,000
Fiber stage bleaching/ dying Drying Stapling Hopper feeding Dual carding Stitchbonding Printing Curing
Follow normal process.
Grain Packing
by
Bleached/ Dyed Home textiles, Curtain Upholstery, Floor covers.
Yarn
10+10=20 40
10 20 32,000
70,900
35,000
Existing processing upto Spinning, add coarse spinning 43/3``flyer, Prebeaming, Dressing, Sacking loader looms Cutting Calender Sack sewing Press
Air conditioning
Air conditioning
Draw head with autoleveler Reconditioned NSC 1st Passage Intersecting Drawing With autoleveler 2nd Intersecting Drawing 3rd Passage Intersecting Drawing Ring Spinning 110 mm ring dia 6,000 rpm 4lb and below Prebeaming, Dressing Shuttless looms
Draw head with autoleveler Reconditioned NSC 1st Passage Intersecting Drawing With autoleveler 2nd Intersecting Drawing 3rd Passage Intersecting Drawing Ring Spinning 110 mm ring dia 6,000 rpm 4lb and below Prebeaming, Dressing Shuttless looms
The above projection indicates that jute mill cannot be a sunset industry. If steps taken it can earn 3 times value addition. But there will be investment on capital on capital goods, as the existing processing machineries needs replacement by new and/or old machines. Besides, there is need for Market Research. Which can be taken up buy IJSG. Market promotion should also be taken up by IJSG and the willing mills jointly. Products have to be produced and approach the identified markets. There needs to formulate a product development and marketing in cycle.
9 The entrepreneurs should have access to Venture Capital from banks supported by IJSG/ Country Govt.s. On marketing, mills have to reorient its age old idea in living in sellers market. One has to know that denting in textile market mind set has to be changed to -buyer’s market. 8 Raw Jute Development: Two verities of jute are in existence namely Cor chorus Capsularis [White ] and Olitorius[Tossa- Golden]. The white jute which possess superior quality in fiber fineness and strength over Tossa is about to extinct due to its low yield and fetches no equal return as in Tossa in cultivation. For jute diversification white jute would develop superior jute textiles. Mill must encourage to cultivate White jute assuring them higher price. Which the mills can afford as it will realize higher value than the conventional products Hessian, Sacking, Yarn. This aspect needs review by mills willing to diversify and encourage jute farmers to fetch right price and go for contract farming. Alternate approach is to allow to harvest early in immature plant and get finer fiber to spin lightest jute yarn below 2 lb. But farmers have to pay due price. 9. Blending at fiber stage: Jute has scope to blend Flax line/ tow and viscose on the carding/ drawing to produce yarn for apparel fabric. 10 Products verses Technology Matrix
: Projection is shown in the table below, [Legend:Technology applicable - *]
Product
1Technology 1
1 Sacking 2 Hessian I3 Yarn n4 Coarse fabric CBC tSecondary 5 Home textiles eWoven / Utility items r]6 Home textiles nNon wovenStitchbonding a7 Home Textilest Non woven i8 Technical TextilesNonwoven o9 Technical Textiles – nWoven aInvestment require/MT/ INR] In Lakhs
Count Range Required [lb] 10 – 35 5- 15 5- 30 7--12
Flyer Spinning
Ring Spinning
Non woven
bonding * * * *
2-30
Fiber Grade Tossa
Fiber Grade White
Price range INR/MT
5-8 3- 6 1- 4 3- 6
3- 6 1- 4
35,000 40,000 33,000 35,000
*
100 – 1000 gsm 100 – 1000 gsm 100 – 1000 gsm 100 – 1000 gsm
Stitch
1-6 *
1- 8
1- 8
*
1- 8
1- 8
*
1- 8
*
1- 8 200
150
80,000 – 2,00,000 80,000 – 2,00,000 40,000 – 80,0000 40,000 – 80,0000 40,000 – 80,0000
100
l Jute Institute: While IJSG is an International body dedicated to jute and one would wonder extent of tangible change could be noticed excepting promoting awareness and sponsoring projects. It is perhaps right time the international body IJSG / CFC may consider to establish International Jute Institute at Dhaka which will on one hand demonstrate production of value added products defined in this paper , embodying further ideas to develop and usher in the relevant technology. It will be the incubation ground for new ideas, products, technology that will provide confidence to the industries in India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal, China Myanmar etc. Under IJSG most talented international experts services can be hired which is not affordable at country level. Thus role of IJSG will be an active promoter rather than a supporter. In this regard the role
10 international agency, International Rice Institute, Manila is worth noticing that acted as catalytic role in bringing change in rice cultivation all over rice producing countries. Notable, example was green revolution in India. Thus it is expected IJSG, in next five years, would kindle light in showing path in the darkness, jute to follow. Meanwhile, the author had opportunity to see the video clipping on Jute product. It had out lined host of diversified product ranges many of which have been covered in this paper. What is not reflected is the technology routes that has been supplemented here. 12 Conclusion: Jute has promise for future. What is required is a. Strong will of entrepreneur to invest for diversification. b. Identify the products which can be handled. c. Need to setup Marketing Wing to create market. d. Need to setup R&D Wing to optimise the product line. e. Adhere strict Quality Control. Textile grade fabrics need quality assurance or else it will loss market. 13 Role of INDICON: In an attempt to diversify the jute industry INDICON is dedicated to provide passive role to IJSG and to any willing mills looking for consultancy in undertaking turn key projects. INDICON is grateful to IJSG in providing opportunity to the author in presenting the paper.
