History of Costume

History of Costume Ages – Edwardian Era { Dark 500 A.D. - 1914

The Dark Ages 

Saxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D. 

A continuation of the tunic 

Belted at the waist or hip

Men begin to wear trouser like garments  Leggings  Cloaks – fur lined & some wool 

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Fastened with brooches

Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 5001066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothingsaxon-frankish-anglo.htm

The Dark Ages 

The Anglo – Saxon Era 700 – 999 

Similar to the Saxon & Frankish Era  

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Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9th century The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared

Began to see class distinction through dress 

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Nobility had embellishments on the collar, waist or border of their tunics Nobility wore longer tunics Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunics THINK MOVIE: King Arthur

The Dark Ages

Anglo-Saxon Lady & Women

Anglo-Saxon King & Queen

Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man

Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 5001066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothingsaxon-frankish-anglo.htm

The Dark Ages 

The Anglo – Saxon Era 1000-1099 

Men    

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Continued to wear tunics but shorter Piercings became popular Coifs – flat, round caps Long stockings with feet & short boots

Women 

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Long woolen gown – sometimes 2 layers  Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleeves Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown Began to wear head covering unless very young

The Dark Ages 500-1100 Think Movies: Beowolf & Grendel Tristan & Isolde The 13th Warrior

Medieval/Middle Ages 

Early Period: 1100-1199 simple shaped fitted tunic for men  Long, wide gown with decorative embroidery for women 

The Bliaut was a dress worn by woman or men in this time period.  Hose took the place of trousers  THINK MOVIE: Robin Hood 

Medieval/Middle Ages 

After 1200

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Men 

Tight short clothes with long pointed shoes 

The longer the point the higher the status

Medieval/Middle Ages 

After 1200

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Women Began to use tight lacing on women's to create a form fitting shape  girdled at the hips  created a long - waisted appearance  Long, trailing gowns  Hennin, worn 1300- 1400,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire. 

Late Medieval Ages 1400-1500  Fashion in this era was greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens.  The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era.  Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown. 

Medieval/Middle Ages Think Movies: Becket BraveHeart A Knight’s Tale The Hunchback of Notre Dame Robin Hood

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/medievalmovies.html

Renaissance: 1400-1500 Shapes becoming rounder  Accentuate Physique  Drawers & Padding for men  Codpiece for men 

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a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin.

Men wore blouses with exposed chest  Pregnancy Pillows for Women 

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the maternal look was fashionable.

Looser, sexier clothing  THINK: Romeo & Juliet 

Renaissance: 1400-1500

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Tighter, stiff, more rigid clothing  Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics  Slashing - cut in the outer surfaces of garments 

doublets, sleeves and gowns  exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath 

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Ruff worn by both men & women 

large stiff collar worn at this time.

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era 

Farthingale for Women 

stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts

Corset  V-Waist  Accessories 

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Pearls, heeled shoes

Tights for men  THINK: Shakespeare in Love 

Elizabethan Era 1500-1600

Renaissance Think Movies: Hamlet Elizabeth Ever After Shakespeare in Love Romeo & Juliet The Agony & the Ecstasy

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/renaissancemovies.html

Cavalier 1620-1660 France Begins to influence Fashion Fashion which said “I don’t have to work for a living.”  Sensual & Soft look, less stiffness  Waistlines began to rise  Ruffs were replaced by lace or linen collars  Sleeves began to become fuller  Men began wearing breeches instead of hose  Accessories 

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Turned down boots Tall broad hats Ribbons & bows

Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves  Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers  Think “Three Musketeers” 

Restoration 1660 - 1715 Women’s Fashion Full, loose sleeves that end at elbow  Tightly corseted  Mantua 

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Hung from the shoulders to the floor 

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worn for 'undress' wear

The overskirt was looped back and held by ribbon bows. Train length determined by social status

Hair worn in tight curls 

Got bigger and higher as the period went on http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/rest oration.htm

Restoration 1660 - 1715 Men’s Fashion Breeches became very baggy  Coat and Waist coat  Ruffled long sleeved shirt  Cravats worn over the neck  Periwig 

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Wig worn by men throughout the period

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/res ources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Restoration 1660 - 1715

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/res ources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Cavalier/Restoration Think Movies: Girl with the Pearl Earring Pirates of the Carribean The Man in the Iron Mask The Three Muskateers The Scarlet Letter

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/baroquemovies.html

Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment Directions: 1. Go to email and open the document I sent you. 2. Find 12 pictures from 12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods. 3. Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box. 4. Save your document, then email it to me when you are complete. 5. You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish.

Movie Title: 300 Time Period: Greek B.C. Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in place Historically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place. Website: http://photos.lucywho.com/que en-gorgo-photo-galleryc16025998.html

Georgian 1700-1775 Men’s Fashion Flat Front Breeches—breeches with a buttoned front flap.  The Justaucorps for men was the forerunner of today’s suit coat.  The Spencer was a short jacket without tails.  Queue—A long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775

Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III - 1760-1820 - Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from : http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-georgeiii-mens-clothes.htm

Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion 

Panniers—baskets made of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt 

The hoop was first funnelshaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion 

Watteau Gown— a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt. The loose folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt.  The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt.  The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved 

from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion Pompadour—large hair-do associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it.  Shepherdess Hat—A hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country.  Mob Cap—Large cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/georgian.htm

Georgian Think Movies: A Tale of Two Cities Marie Antoinette The Duchess The Legend of Sleepy Hollow The Patriot The Last of the Mohicans

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/georgianmovies.html

THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette

Empire 1790-1815 Men's Fashion Breeches became longer and more tightly fitted  Trousers or Pantaloons for the street  Coats were cutaway with long tails and standing collars  Waist coats were high waisted and squared off at the bottom  Hair wax and mutton chops were the new hair fad  Wellington style boot 

Empire 1790-1815 Women's Fashion The triumph of the “undressed” look  Followed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouette  Empire Waist 

High waisted, natural look  No corsets 

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Accessories Gloves  Vinaigrette: small drawstring handbag 

Empire Think Movies: Becoming Jane Emma Pride & Prejudice The Count of Monte Cristo The Brother’s Grimm

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/regencymovies.html

THINK MOVIE: Emma

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion 

Peg-Top Trousers–Trousers that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles. 

The name peg-top originally applied to a boy’s cone-shaped spinning top.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His tory/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Sack Coat–A loose-fitting coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce.  Great Coat–An overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat.  Frock Coat–A double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His tory/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Accessories Ascot–A scarf tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin.  Bowler–A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His tory/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion 

Beret Sleeves - cut from a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole

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Gigot Sleeves–A full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_His tory/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion 

Wider Skirt Hemlines: Gored into panels from 1820-1828 to added width at hemline, but keep tight waist  Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way. 

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion 

Pelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders and added modesty. 

The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion 

Hats: Large romantic wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bows 

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complemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830s

Bonnets were virtually interchangeable with hats Coal scuttle bonnet styles with deep crowns accommodated the high  Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived 

from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style.  String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down.  Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/crinoline.htm

Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860 Men’s Fashion Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor.  Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men.  Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/crinoline.htm

Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837 - 1860 Return to the look of demure prim gentility  Big hats leave and bonnets return  The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line.  Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline  Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees 

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. .  Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve.  Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class. 

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era – Crinoline Women's Fashion 1837-1860 

Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped. Held up by 6 layers of petticoats  Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. 

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Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff

Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian 1865-1890 Four factors that begin to influence fashion 1. 2. 3. 4.

The invention of the sewing machine Fashion becomes couture design led Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket.  Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions.  Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm

Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length breeches gathered in at the knee  Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot.  Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm

Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt.  Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee.  Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet)

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume _History/bustle.htm

Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette 1867-1875  Apron style tablier top layer half skirt  contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back. Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  From 1870, ball gowns always had a train. 

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by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.

By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train

Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901  Princess Line and the Cuirasse Bodice 

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soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one.

Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion  The New Hard Bustle of 1883  jutting out shelf like style of bustle 

larger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse

Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles  Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front. 

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/midlate_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian (both eras) Think Movies: Far and Away The Phantom of the Opera Gangs of New York Gone With the Wind Glory Cold Mountain The Mask of Zorro Sherlock Holmes http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/victorianmovies.html

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Fashion Chesterfield—A fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar  Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Hats Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America.  For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape.  Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.  Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-towear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality.  Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.  Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front. 

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 

Gibson Girl—More often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. 

Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costum e_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907 

The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect 

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The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur.

Evening wear 

exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom. Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Accessories 

Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers.

Feathers  Gloves  Parasols  Bags 

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashionera.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables Titanic Finding Neverland My Fair Lady Legends of the Fall

http://www.erasofelegance.com/entertainment/edwardianmovies.html